Think PICHULIK jewellery and the first thing that comes to mind is a striking display of warm, bright colour. Their brand new collection for this summer is about to change this perception as the team heads North of the continent – a new direction without departing from the brand’s roots.
Gone are the vibrant blues, reds and yellows. In their place are smooth metal, a restricted palette of natural colours in soothing hues. But the influences are familiar. “I would not trace our new jewellery designs to a specific period but rather see the designs as descendants of Central Indian ceremonial jewels, Middle-Eastern ornamentation and byzantine gold and gemstone embellishments. of gold and stones,” says the brand’s owner and designer Katherine-Mary Pichiluk.
The result is a collection made up of dusty pinks, soft sand colours, black and white offset by gold wrapping and polished metals. The shapes are reminiscent of influential 20th century sculptor Pieces such as the Mithra pendant and Anahita choker and cuff evoke the feminine qualities that have become a hallmark of PICHULIK’s designs: grace, wisdom, compassion as well as fierce strength. PICHULIK’s ropework features too, this time as simple knots in the chokers and bracelets.
Because many of the materials are organic – coral, shell, horn – no two pieces are the same. In a similar vein, pieces such as the Mithra pair of rings are not kept together by glue or soldering but by the laws of pressure that work like gravity.
Brâncuși whose bronze and marble works are celebrated for their simple forms and exquisite finishing that beg to be touched.
With the spring/summer 2017 collection, PICHULIK made the materials and her team’s craftsmanship the heroes by working with organic shapes from shell, horn, coral, jade and glass.
The jewellery is echoed in the second PICHULIK by Nadya von Stein clothing collection. “The garments are inspired by the travelling garments of the ’30s and are made from hand-dyed hemp in natural hues. The lines are clean and the focus is on function as much as fashion,” says Von Stein.
“This collection is incredibly feminine and the colours are softer because of the desert influences. I guess it’s because I am also in love at the moment and my general take on things is softer and gentler. We really wanted to pare the pieces down to the brand’s essence, which has always been considered materials, sensitive and attentive craftsmanship, and ancient wisdom,” adds Pichulik. This is echoed by the fact that she chose not to give the collection a name, unlike previous ranges.
A satin slip dress, high-waisted trousers with scallopped hems, a trench and a matching top and trousers are among the key pieces, all of which are made from cotton, satin and hemp. The focus is on comfort and elegance backed by expert tailoring that create looks that are “everyday” but never “off-duty”.
In addition to the garments, there is a limited-edition range of hats and bags that are playful and have the PICHULIK personality. All the items – two backpacks, a clutch and one hat – too have a nomadic character, thus tying in with the clothing and jewellery to create a wardrobe that fit into one suitcase, travel well and are at home on any continent. “If you want to put a face to the collection, think Oroma Elewa and her spirited diaries of Marrakesh and Georgio O’Keeffe’s brave living in New Mexico,” says Pichulik.
The spring/summer 2017 collection will be available online at pichulik.com on 14 October 2016 and at the PICHULIK stores in the V&A Watershed as well as AKJP Collective in Cape Town.